Living in Abruzzo
Making Friends in Abruzzo: The Honest Version
Moving to a small Italian village sounds romantic until you realise you don't speak the language, your neighbours are 40 years older than you, and the expat community is three people who don't get along. Social isolation is the silent killer of relocation dreams. This isn't to put you off,it's to help you plan. Here's what social life actually looks like in rural Abruzzo, and how to build connections that don't depend on a fantasy version of Italian village life.
The Social Reality
Here is what most relocation guides do not tell you: the first year can be lonely. Not might be. Can be, and for many people, is. You have left behind decades of accumulated relationships: neighbours who know your name, colleagues you see daily, the friend you call when something good or bad happens, the casual acquaintances you bump into at the supermarket who make you feel known. You arrive in Abruzzo with none of that. Zero. You are starting from nothing in a place where everyone else has known each other since childhood.
This is not a reason not to move. It is a reason to plan for it, to budget emotional energy for it, and to stop assuming that the beauty of your surroundings will substitute for human connection. A stunning view of the Gran Sasso does not replace a conversation with someone who cares about your day. A perfect espresso at the village bar does not replace the friend you used to debrief with after a hard week.
The people who thrive socially in Abruzzo share certain traits. They are proactive about connection rather than waiting to be approached. They are comfortable being the one who initiates, who shows up, who says hello first. They are patient with relationships that build slowly over months and years rather than weeks. And they are willing to be awkward, to stumble through Italian, to misunderstand and be misunderstood, because the alternative is comfortable isolation that hardens into permanent isolation.
Village Social Dynamics
Small Italian villages have tight social structures built over generations. Everyone knows everyone. Families have history together: alliances, feuds, marriages, debts, shared grief, inherited land disputes that go back to the 1950s. There are unspoken hierarchies, established rhythms, and social codes that no outsider can immediately read. You are entering a social ecosystem that functions perfectly well without you.
This sounds discouraging, but it is neutral information. Villages are not hostile to newcomers. Most are curious, politely interested, and willing to accept someone who demonstrates genuine intention to be part of the community. But they are complete without you, and breaking in requires time, consistency, and a willingness to earn your place rather than expecting it to be offered.
What works is visibility and consistency. Greeting everyone, every time. Buongiorno is non-negotiable, even to people you have never spoken to. Shopping locally, even when the supermarket in the nearest town is cheaper, because the alimentari is where you become a familiar face. Attending village events: the sagra, the festa patronale, the procession, the band concert in the piazza, even if you do not fully understand what is happening. Accepting every invitation, including awkward ones where you understand 30% of the conversation and sit smiling through the rest. Being visibly present: walking through the village, sitting in the piazza in the early evening, being seen regularly enough that your presence becomes normal rather than noteworthy.
What does not work is equally predictable. Keeping to yourself and expecting people to come to you. Complaining about how things work differently here. Socialising only with other foreigners in a way that signals to the village that you are not really interested in them. And, most damagingly, treating locals as charming scenery, as picturesque background to your Italian lifestyle rather than as actual people with their own concerns, opinions, and dignity.
The Expat Community
Abruzzo has expatriates: British, American, Northern European, and others. But far fewer than Tuscany, Umbria, or the Marche. There is no organised expatriate infrastructure. No English-language bookshop, no regular meetup programme, no international school, no British pub. The foreigners who are here tend to be scattered geographically across the region, and they vary enormously in how long they have been here, how integrated they are, and whether you would choose to spend time with them.
Some have been in Abruzzo for twenty years, speak fluent Italian, and are deeply woven into their local community. Some arrived last year and are still finding their feet. Some are wonderful people you will be glad to know. Some are people you would avoid at home and will avoid here too, because geography does not change personality. The assumption that all foreigners in Abruzzo will naturally become friends is no more reasonable than assuming that all English speakers in London would get along.
Facebook groups exist. Search for Abruzzo expatriate groups and you will find several, ranging from useful to chaotic. They can be genuinely helpful for practical questions: finding a plumber, understanding a letter from the comune, locating a specific product. They occasionally organise meetups. But do not expect a ready-made social circle. Online groups are a resource, not a community. Community requires physical proximity, regular contact, and shared experience that a Facebook group cannot provide.
A Note on Expatriate Bubbles
Some people move to Italy and socialise exclusively with other English speakers. In the short term, this is easier and more comfortable. In the longer term, it is limiting. You end up living in Italy without living in Italy. Your understanding of the culture stays shallow. Your Italian stays basic. Your social world becomes a transplanted version of home with better weather, which defeats much of the purpose of being here. Expatriate friendships are valuable, especially early on when you need people who understand what you are going through. But if after two years your entire social circle is foreign, you have built a bubble, not a life.
Building Italian Friendships
Italian friendships develop differently from Anglo friendships. In the UK or America, friendships often form quickly and operate at a relatively uniform level of warmth. You meet someone, get along, exchange numbers, meet for coffee. The process from stranger to friend can happen in weeks. Italian friendships tend to be slower to form but deeper once established. The progression from acquaintance to friend is not linear. You might know someone for two years, exchanging greetings and brief conversation at the bar, before something shifts and the relationship suddenly deepens.
You will have many "bar friends" early on: people you greet, chat with briefly, know by name and face. This is normal and valuable. Do not dismiss these relationships because they feel superficial by your own cultural standards. In Italian social life, the bar acquaintance is the first stage of a process that can eventually lead to genuine closeness, but only if you keep showing up, keep being present, and keep demonstrating that you are here to stay.
Over time, some of these acquaintances deepen. You are invited for coffee at someone's home. You are included in a family lunch, which in Italian culture is not a casual event but a significant gesture of inclusion. Someone asks for your phone number and calls you about something unrelated to practical help. These are signals that the relationship is moving from acquaintance to something more substantial. When it happens, reciprocate. Bring something when you visit: wine, pastries from a good pasticceria, something from your home country. Accept generosity without excessive protest, but find ways to return it.
Be aware of age dynamics. Many rural Abruzzo villages skew older. If you are 45, your nearest neighbours might be 75. This does not preclude friendship, but it shapes it differently. Cross-generational friendships are common in Italian village life and can be deeply rewarding. Older residents often enjoy the role of teacher and guide, explaining local history, showing you how things work, sharing knowledge about the land and the seasons. These relationships are genuine, not just transactional. But if you need peer-age friendships, you may need to look in larger towns like Lanciano, Sulmona, or Atri, or accept that close friends may live 30 or 40 minutes away rather than next door.
The Language Factor
Without Italian, your social options in Abruzzo are severely limited. This is not a soft suggestion. It is a structural fact. Most people in rural Abruzzo do not speak English. Even those who studied it in school are rusty, self-conscious, and unlikely to sustain a conversation beyond basic pleasantries. In inland areas, many older residents speak primarily in dialect, which even Italians from other regions find difficult to follow.
You do not need fluency before you arrive. But you need a foundation: enough Italian to greet people properly, to handle basic transactions, to follow the general shape of a conversation even if the details escape you. A2 level on the Common European Framework is a reasonable minimum, roughly equivalent to being able to introduce yourself, describe your situation in simple terms, and understand slow, clearly spoken Italian on familiar topics. You also need a plan to continue learning intensively after you arrive, whether through formal classes, a tutor, or immersion through daily use.
Most importantly, you need willingness to speak badly and to make mistakes publicly. This is where many adults struggle. The embarrassment of sounding like a child, of using the wrong word, of being corrected or not understood, stops people from practising. They retreat into English-speaking environments where they feel competent, and their Italian stalls. The people who improve fastest are those who embrace the discomfort: who order at the bar in Italian even when it would be easier to point, who attempt conversation even when they know they will stumble, who treat every interaction as practice rather than a performance. Your neighbours will appreciate the effort far more than they will judge the mistakes.
Where Connections Happen
Friendships in Italy rarely form through deliberate "meeting people" in the way that Anglo cultures organise networking events or social mixers. They form through repeated contact in shared contexts. The more contexts you share with someone, the more likely a connection will develop. This means putting yourself in situations where you see the same people regularly.
Daily Life
The local bar is the centre of village social life. The morning coffee ritual, between about 7:30 and 10:00, is where you will see the same faces daily and where the barista becomes your first genuine acquaintance. Small shops and the weekly market serve the same function: regular contact with regular people. The piazza in the early evening, especially in warmer months, is where people gather to talk, to see who is about, to exchange news. Walking through the village at consistent times makes you visible and familiar.
Organised Activities
Structured activities create regular contact that casual encounters cannot. Italian classes, if available locally or in a nearby town. Sports clubs: hiking groups (CAI sections exist across Abruzzo), cycling clubs, skiing in winter at Roccaraso or Campo Imperatore. The Pro Loco, the local civic and cultural association that organises events in most comuni, is always looking for willing volunteers. Volunteer work with local associations, from environmental clean-ups to archaeological digs, puts you alongside Italians working toward a shared purpose.
Events
Village sagre (food festivals) run from late spring through autumn and are among the best opportunities to be part of community life. Every village has its own sagra, often celebrating a local speciality: arrosticini, lentils, saffron, truffles, porchetta. Religious festivals and processions, especially the festa patronale (patron saint's day), are community events regardless of your own beliefs. Local theatre groups, band concerts in the piazza, and seasonal celebrations like Carnevale and Ferragosto bring people together in ways that make conversation natural rather than forced.
Practical Contexts
Some of the most genuine connections form through practical interaction. Renovation work introduces you to tradespeople, their families, and the network of people who orbit a building site. Gardening and land work, if you have an orto or olive trees, creates natural opportunities for advice-seeking and reciprocal help. Neighbourhood favours, lending tools, sharing produce, helping with something heavy, build trust and familiarity. If you have children in local schools, the school gate is one of the fastest routes to community membership.
Managing Isolation
Even with consistent effort, there will be lonely periods. Especially in the first year, especially in winter when the days are short and the village is quiet, especially if your location is remote. This is normal. It is not a sign that you have made a mistake. It is a predictable phase of expatriate life that most people who stay long enough move through. But it needs managing, because unmanaged isolation compounds.
Maintaining relationships back home is essential, not as a substitute for building connections in Italy, but as a foundation of continuity while you do. Scheduled calls with people who matter, not sporadic WhatsApp messages that trail off, but actual conversations at regular intervals. Planned visits from friends and family, spaced through the year rather than clustered in summer, so that you have something to look forward to during the harder months. Planned trips home, not as escapes but as maintenance of the life you still have there.
Creating structure in your days matters more than most people expect. Without the framework of a job or school run or social obligations, days can become formless, and formless days are lonely days. Have projects that get you out of the house: the garden, a renovation task, a walk you do every morning, a language lesson. Consider getting a dog. This is not a frivolous suggestion. A dog forces you outside daily, provides companionship, and is an instant conversation starter in a culture that is generally warm toward animals. Dog owners in Italian villages meet other dog owners and, through them, the wider community.
Be honest with yourself about how you are feeling. Isolation that is persistent and worsening after twelve to eighteen months is a signal that something needs to change. Either the location is not working and you are too remote for your social needs. Or the approach is not working and you need to invest more in language and visibility. Or Italy itself is not right for you, which is a legitimate conclusion that deserves honest consideration rather than dismissal. All of these are addressable, but only if you acknowledge them rather than pushing through on willpower alone.
Realistic Expectations
The timeline for building a social life in Abruzzo is longer than most people anticipate, and setting realistic expectations from the start prevents the disappointment that drives people away.
Year one is acquaintances, not friends. You are establishing presence, learning how things work, being seen. Social life requires conscious effort and rarely feels natural. You will have days when you speak to nobody except the barista and the person at the alimentari. This is normal, not permanent.
Year two is when some acquaintances begin to deepen. You have people you can call for practical help, who recognise you on the street and stop to talk rather than just nodding. Your Italian is functional if imperfect, and conversations start to have substance rather than just politeness. You begin to understand village dynamics: who is connected to whom, which families have history, where you fit in the social landscape.
Year three and beyond is when real friendships exist. You are part of the fabric rather than an addition to it. People invite you without hesitation. You are included in things without having to ask. Social life starts to feel natural rather than constructed. You are no longer "the English one" in every conversation. You are just you, who happens to be foreign.
This timeline assumes consistent effort. It compresses with stronger Italian ability, more social initiative, and better location choice. A village with a functioning bar, a few hundred residents, and some younger families offers more social opportunity than a hamlet with twelve elderly residents. It extends with isolation, language avoidance, or a community that is simply the wrong fit for your personality.
Three years feels like a long time when you are standing at the beginning. It is worth knowing that almost every long-term expatriate in Abruzzo will tell you the same thing: the first year was harder than expected, the second year was when things started to shift, and somewhere in the third year it began to feel like home. The people who leave before that point often leave just before the breakthrough they had been working toward.
The Bottom Line
Social life in Abruzzo is achievable but requires intention. The fantasy of instant belonging in a welcoming village community is mostly that: a fantasy. The reality is slower, requires more effort, and is ultimately more rewarding because you have built it yourself. Plan for the work. Budget for the lonely patches. Invest in Italian. Show up consistently. Accept awkwardness as the price of entry. The connections will come, but they come on Italian time, not yours.
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